Nationals at Richmond Yacht ClubMay 20 - 22
Result
PosBoatTotalRace 1Race 2Race 3Race 4Race 5Race 6Race 7
1Peaches184(4)3(7)4(11)4(15)1(16)1(17)2 (19)
2Motorcycle Irene181(1)2(3)3(6)3(9)5(14)3(17)3 (20)
3Under the Radar237(7)1(8)1(9)1(10)3(13)5(18)5 (23)
4Hot Sheet242(2)4(6)3(9)4(13)2(15)2(17)7 (24)
5Magic Bus303(3)5(8)5(13)6(19)6(25)4(29)1 (30)
6Bombora516(6)7(13)8(21)5(26)4(30)15(45)6 (51)
7Fired Up!5412(12)8(20)6(26)8(34)9(43)7(50)4 (54)
8Freaks on a Leash579(9)9(18)7(25)7(32)7(39)9(48)9 (57)
9Abigail Morgan628(8)11(19)10(29)9(38)10(48)6(54)8 (62)
10Dianne7510(10)10(20)9(29)DNS(45)12(57)8(65)10 (75)
11Artemis765(5)6(11)12(23)DNS(39)11(50)10(60)DNF (76)
12Public Enemy8012(12)12(24)11(35)10(45)8(53)14(67)11 (78)
13Tequila Mockingbird8811(11)14(25)14(39)11(50)14(64)11(75)13 (88)
14Current Affair8814(14)12(26)13(39)12(51)13(64)12(76)12 (88)
15Phoenix10715(15)RET(31)RET(47)DNS(63)15(78)13(91)DNF(107)
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Author: Bill ([email protected]) contact the author
Subject: Filling Deck Holes
Info: (20339 views) Posted: Friday 3-11-16 12:26:40 PM
I will also suggest sticking with vinylester but I find it (much) harder to work with in Florida than quality epoxy. My suggestion is to use a tape that won't give up underneath. Painters tape is useless. I suggest Gorilla Duct Tape, I have only found it in black lately. If you are abandoning the holes put 2 layers of glass (6oz+) on the deck over them using vinylester resin. This link also has some good ideas. I have purchased his butyl tape, great stuff.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck

Bill #44

:: Thanks everyone, especially for the info in Vinyl vs
:: Epoxy. I had completely forgotten about that.
::
:: I will be resurfacing the deck after doing all this.
::
:: So it sounds like the best way to fill abandoned holes
:: is just to over drill from the top, use green 3m
:: painters tape on the bottom, then fill with vinyl resin
:: (probably with a syringe) carefully from the bottom up
:: to avoid air pockets.
::
:: For holes that are going to be re-used for hardware,
:: over drill from the bottom up leaving the top fiberglass
:: intact, coat an appropriately sized G10 tube on the top
:: and sides with vinyl resin, then insert it up from the
:: bottom. The intention here would be to vinyl resin glue
:: it to the top layer of fiberglass and stop any water
:: incursion there. Seems to me if I accomplish that well,
:: then filling in any cavities around the sides of the
:: tops where the G10 would be touching balsa is desirable
:: but not critical.
::
:: Does that sound like a good summary of everyone's tips?
::
:: :: Great advice. I used epoxy resin to fill holes and am
:: :: now faced with more infiltration. Where to get G10 tubes
:: :: and rods? SDK
:: ::
:: :: :: I strongly second Jason's advice to use vinylester
:: :: :: resin, and also to use G10 tubes in holes that will be
:: :: :: taking mounting hardware.
:: :: ::
:: :: :: For holes being abandoned, a quick and dirty repair
:: :: :: (that may leak later): over-drill the hole to get clean
:: :: :: edges, tape the backside with _green_ 3m painters tape,
:: :: :: fill with thickened vinylester, and paint the top of the
:: :: :: repair to protect it from UV.
:: :: ::
:: :: :: The _best_ way to fill holes being abandoned is to
:: :: :: scallop around the holes first with a die grinder
:: :: :: (extending 1/8-1/4" beyond the hole) fill them with
:: :: :: thickened vinylester and cap them with little circles of
:: :: :: fiberglass mat. This will completely prevent them from
:: :: :: cracking at the edges of the repair and leaking. This is
:: :: :: the approach I would always take if the deck is getting
:: :: :: refinished. It goes really fast when you are doing lots
:: :: :: of holes.
:: :: ::
:: :: :: Vinylester isn't readily available. I get it at
:: :: :: Svendsens, but the smallest size they have is a gallon.
:: :: :: It is MUCH easier to work with since it is much more
:: :: :: tolerant and cures to sanding very quickly (1-3 hours in
:: :: :: good weather).
:: :: ::
:: :: ::
:: :: ::
:: :: :: :: Let me recommend NOT using epoxy resin. It shrinks over
:: :: :: :: time and will allow water to get back into the balsa
:: :: :: :: core (ask me how I know this!). The best solution is to
:: :: :: :: use vinylester resin and G-10 rod in each of the holes.
:: :: :: :: The G-10 will keep you from over compressing the holes
:: :: :: :: when the hardware is re-installed. Either way, you
:: :: :: :: should use vinylester resin to make sure you avoid the
:: :: :: :: shrinking issue. Now would be a good time to tap out the
:: :: :: :: deck to make sure there are not any other areas of water
:: :: :: :: entry into the deck.
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: Cheers,
:: :: ::
:: :: :: :: Jason
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: 3-4 inch wIde painters tape and lots of it.
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: :: Hi all,
:: :: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: :: I've removed all the hardware from my deck and am about
:: :: :: :: :: :: to over-drill, fill, and re-drill.
:: :: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: :: I'm wondering if anybody has some good tips on how to
:: :: :: :: :: :: keep the expoxy from dripping through the holes and into
:: :: :: :: :: :: the interior.
:: :: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: :: Taped on wax paper under the hole? Wait until epoxy is a
:: :: :: :: :: :: thick consistency? Use thickeners?
:: :: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: :: I'd love to not have to learn this one the hard way ;-)
:: :: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: :: Thanks
:: :: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: :: Bryan

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