Thanks everyone, especially for the info in Vinyl vs Epoxy. I had
completely forgotten about that.
I will be resurfacing the deck after doing all this.
So it sounds like the best way to fill abandoned holes is just to
over drill from the top, use green 3m painters tape on the bottom,
then fill with vinyl resin (probably with a syringe) carefully from
the bottom up to avoid air pockets.
For holes that are going to be re-used for hardware, over drill from
the bottom up leaving the top fiberglass intact, coat an
appropriately sized G10 tube on the top and sides with vinyl resin,
then insert it up from the bottom. The intention here would be to
vinyl resin glue it to the top layer of fiberglass and stop any water
incursion there. Seems to me if I accomplish that well, then filling
in any cavities around the sides of the tops where the G10 would be
touching balsa is desirable but not critical.
Does that sound like a good summary of everyone's tips?
:: Great advice. I used epoxy resin to fill holes and am
:: now faced with more infiltration. Where to get G10 tubes
:: and rods? SDK
::
:: :: I strongly second Jason's advice to use vinylester
:: :: resin, and also to use G10 tubes in holes that will be
:: :: taking mounting hardware.
:: ::
:: :: For holes being abandoned, a quick and dirty repair
:: :: (that may leak later): over-drill the hole to get clean
:: :: edges, tape the backside with _green_ 3m painters tape,
:: :: fill with thickened vinylester, and paint the top of the
:: :: repair to protect it from UV.
:: ::
:: :: The _best_ way to fill holes being abandoned is to
:: :: scallop around the holes first with a die grinder
:: :: (extending 1/8-1/4" beyond the hole) fill them with
:: :: thickened vinylester and cap them with little circles of
:: :: fiberglass mat. This will completely prevent them from
:: :: cracking at the edges of the repair and leaking. This is
:: :: the approach I would always take if the deck is getting
:: :: refinished. It goes really fast when you are doing lots
:: :: of holes.
:: ::
:: :: Vinylester isn't readily available. I get it at
:: :: Svendsens, but the smallest size they have is a gallon.
:: :: It is MUCH easier to work with since it is much more
:: :: tolerant and cures to sanding very quickly (1-3 hours in
:: :: good weather).
:: ::
:: ::
:: ::
:: :: :: Let me recommend NOT using epoxy resin. It shrinks over
:: :: :: time and will allow water to get back into the balsa
:: :: :: core (ask me how I know this!). The best solution is to
:: :: :: use vinylester resin and G-10 rod in each of the holes.
:: :: :: The G-10 will keep you from over compressing the holes
:: :: :: when the hardware is re-installed. Either way, you
:: :: :: should use vinylester resin to make sure you avoid the
:: :: :: shrinking issue. Now would be a good time to tap out the
:: :: :: deck to make sure there are not any other areas of water
:: :: :: entry into the deck.
:: :: ::
:: :: :: Cheers,
:: ::
:: :: :: Jason
:: :: ::
:: :: ::
:: :: :: :: 3-4 inch wIde painters tape and lots of it.
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: Hi all,
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: I've removed all the hardware from my deck and am about
:: :: :: :: :: to over-drill, fill, and re-drill.
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: I'm wondering if anybody has some good tips on how to
:: :: :: :: :: keep the expoxy from dripping through the holes and into
:: :: :: :: :: the interior.
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: Taped on wax paper under the hole? Wait until epoxy is a
:: :: :: :: :: thick consistency? Use thickeners?
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: I'd love to not have to learn this one the hard way ;-)
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: Thanks
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: Bryan
