Elite Keel at San Francisco Yacht Club | May 18 - 19 |
Story |
Congratulations to Dianne with their win in the Elite Keel Regatta.
Here is Steve's Top Ten List that he has submitted for publication. ELITE KEEL STORY-A LIST OF TEN THINGS THAT HELPED DIANNE 1) The crew: Jarian Westfall, Laurel Schmidt, Mike Pastrone, Jeff Fellicetti 2) Will Paxton wasn't there. 3) This crew can change head sails, the hanked kind, in less then 2.3 minutes. 4) Wilie E Coyote didn't race Sunday. 5) Sun was shining. 6) It was my birthday weekend. 7. El Raton wasn't there. 8. We went left when we could. 9. The wind was blowing. 10. This crew has 59 combined years sailing with me. |
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Author: Bryan Myers Subject: Forward hatch spinnaker launch questions Info: (13233 views) Posted: Sunday 6-17-12 07:26:54 AM |
:: Hoisting / dousing out of the front hatch is the way to
:: go. We always got twists when hoisting out of the main
:: hatch and there's a bigger chance of tearing kite on
:: spreaders, etc.
::
:: We tie the sheets & halyard to the kite at the beginning
:: of the day (no shackles on the kite, including the
:: halyard--they catch on the headstay) and never untie it.
:: Take down on the side you want to hoist on (generally a
:: weather douse). Weather douse is easy on an e27--one
:: person strips the pole, another pulls the kite down into
:: the hatch. If we get it on the wrong side, we'll just
:: 'dingy-hoist'--drive super deep, get the thing in the
:: air, and then hook up the pole.
::
:: We have a bag that fits in the front hatch, so the kite
:: isn't loose in the interior. If you don't have a bag,
:: make sure that all screw heads, sharp corners, etc down
:: below are well taped up.
::
:: 1) Always hoist / douse under the foot of the jib.
:: Behind the jib leads to all kinds of problems, including
:: getting the kite sucked into the jib fairleads. The jib
:: must be eased before you can hoist. When dousing, the
:: foredeck has to be careful to get the jib sheets on the
:: correct side of hatch.
::
:: 2) We have small stainless snap shackles on the deck
:: near the bow pulpit we clip the halyard to. They have
:: remote pulls led to the weather side. In a pinch,
:: electrical tape (to the bow pulpit) works fine--just
:: break it when time to hoist.
::
:: 3) We go pole-up first when possible, "dingy style" for
:: gybe sets and occassionally when there is no time to get
:: the pole up before rounding (and as mentioned above, if
:: the kite is on the wrong side).
::
:: 4) ALWAYS close the hatch immediately. I have seen
:: serious injuries from people falling down open hatches.
:: Foredeck person watches / helps the kite leave the
:: hatch, then _imediately_ closes the hatch. _then_ they
:: can help with any tangles, problems, jib douse, etc.
:: Trying to solve problems on any foredeck with the hatch
:: open is very dangerous.
::
:: Also, wait as long as possible before opening the hatch.
:: It's almost the last thing we do before dousing.
::
:: Finally: train your bow team to be nice to your front
:: hatch. That means not slamming it open, not stepping on
:: it when it is open, and moving the sheets and halyards
:: away from the hinges before shutting it. A little extra
:: care here won't hurt your results and it will save you
:: time & money!
::
:: 5) We always use hanks. We've never torn a kite on them.
:: We have, however, caught tapered sheets & halyards in
:: them before. Make sure your hanks all work well so they
:: shut right and don't stick part way open. New hanks are
:: cheap and easy to install--carry spares!
::
:: Once you get the front hatch thing figured out, you
:: won't go back to turtles or main hatch hoisting. It
:: really does work well.
::
:: --brendan::
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