Delta Ditch Run at Stockton Sailing Club/Richmond Yacht ClubJune 2
Story
Norcalsailing report featuring Summer Palace:
http://www.norcalsailing.com/entries/2012/06/05/ditchrun2.html#.T-iWoI2Mfqs

Below quoted from Pressure Drop: Drew Scott was helming a F-28.

"My crew is starting to swing around to pick me up when El Raton, in perfect control slides up beside me and asks if I would like to get picked up. They had already doused their chute and stopped beside me. I took their offer and got back into a boat (trying to stop a lightweight trimaran next to someone when it is blowing in the mid-20s is not easy so I figured I would not turn down El Raton.

My crew ably finished the race on Papillon, only one boat behind El Raton! And I had many adventures with El Raton, but that is their story to tell.

So, a great big thank you to the Ray Lotto and the crew of El Raton for pulling my soggy hide out of Suisun Bay!!

Drew Scott
Papillon (most of the time)"
Result
PosBoatTotalRace 1
1El Raton11
2Magic Bus22
3Peaches33
4Scandalous44
5Wile E Coyote55
6Loose Cannon66
7Take Five77
8Ergo88
9Great White99
10Libra1010
11Summer Palace1111
export csv

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Author: Brendan
Subject: Replacement Windows
Info: (12130 views) Posted: Sunday 8-12-12 01:09:28 PM
Acrylic (plexiglass) is the prefered material--this is what hatches are made from. Polycarbonate (lexan) is stronger against impact but scratches too easily and quickly looks very dull. That said, Acrylic needs to be cut and drilled carefully to prevent micro-cracking.

Tap Plastics has done a very nice job making windows for me on several occassions, and they aren't too expensive. They have a variety of colors available (I like "bronze", but folks have used all different colors). It is best if you can take them the old windows and have them cut the shape, add a bevel, and drill the holes. Be specific when asking for bevels, edge polishing, drilling, etc. Holes should be drilled slightly oversize to account for expansion/shrinking/movement.

The last set I had made were 1/4" bronze acrylic. It was about $150 for parts and labor to have Tap cut, bevel, drill, and polish them (2006). They look great.

I have no experience with butyl tape, but it is getting great reviews for mounting all types of marine hardware. I just acquired some and will start trying it out. The butyl tape I've seen is grey or black, and may not look as good as a white or clear sealant.

Polysulfide--great for mounting most hardware--will attack many plastics and shouldn't be used to mount acrylic (or polycarbonate) windows. Polyeurethane (5200) is too agressive for sealing windows (could be very hard to remove in the future). Silicone isn't generally considered strong enough for sealing windows and also can lead to problems with future paint jobs. That said, the 25 year old windows in my Express 37 are still leak free from their original silicone installation.

LifeSeal (blend of silicone & polyeurethane) is promoted as a good caulk for acrylic windows.

Also: don't tighten the screws too much--you can easily crack the new windows (you can guess how I know this).

--brendan

:: I see a lot of people have had to replace their windows
:: on the boats.
::
:: What is the preferred material (lexan or plexiglass) and
:: what degree of tint have people been using? My are old
:: and faded pretty bad.
::
:: What are people using as a sealant for the windows? I
:: was thinking butyl tape but just checking.

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