How many tubes do I need for one window with 1/8 in thickness? Do you have the part number of the Express 27 window to buy/order? Do windows come with bolt holes? Yoshi

:: I would personally recommend Silpruf. My understanding
:: is that it was designed to put windows in skyscrapers
:: and it has 100% elasticity. When we put windows in the
:: SC 50's, the rig shop I worked for was the only one I am
:: aware of that would guarantee the window installation. I
:: would recommend black for the color. Takes more to
:: cleanup but looks better overall IMO (Looks like a
:: shadow line vs dingy white after a number of years).
::
:: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Doffi...
::
:: The key is to have some space like Brendan mentioned. I
:: use small nylon washers on either side of the bolt holes
:: to maintain the gap vs E-tape.
::
:: The key is to only tighten the window so that it is snug
:: (less is more in this situation) and not to
:: over-tighten. Oversized holes in the windows is key as
:: well like Brendan mentioned. Once everything has cured,
:: you can tighten the bolts a bit more but only tighten
:: the barrel nut on the inside. You want to take care not
:: break the seal on the outside. You likely won't need to
:: do this but if you do, then that is how I would do it.
::
:: If you do the job, I would highly recommend you do new
:: windows as well. It is a big job and you wouldn't want
:: to make the effort without new windows IMO. It would
:: probably take me 6-10 hours for the 4 windows in the
:: Express to do it right and I did a lot of windows back
:: in the day when I worked as a rigger.
::
:: SC 50 was 8 hours per 8ft window for reference. That is
:: a pull, prep and seal new windows in.
::
:: Jason
::
:: :: I don't use acetone on the windows but have not observed
:: :: any visible harm for use on gelcoat. More harmful to
:: :: lungs & tissue.
:: ::
:: :: Next time, I may try what I've seen on Yeti, a foam
:: :: automotive like weather seal. Also, if you are in a jam,
:: :: blue tape the window edges before a race or use Stay
:: :: Afloat puddy (smells like jerky) if surface is dry or
:: :: wet. Jam into joints or cracks.
:: ::
:: :: JB
:: ::
:: :: :: Tell us more about NOT using acetone or solvents. What
:: :: :: should be used and why no acetone or solvents. SDK
:: :: ::
:: :: ::
:: :: ::
:: :: :: :: No posted instructions that I know of, though you can
:: :: :: :: search the internet and find various approaches people
:: :: :: :: have taken.
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: Generally windows leak through the screw holes, though
:: :: :: :: if not well sealed originally they can leak anywhere.
:: :: :: :: The cabin top flexes a lot when walked on and will break
:: :: :: :: the seal for the windows. If the windows are in very
:: :: :: :: good shape and seem well sealed you can try removing
:: :: :: :: offending screws, sealing them with silicone, and
:: :: :: :: replacing them.
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: To re-bed the windows they must be removed, all old
:: :: :: :: sealant carefully cleaned from boat and windows
:: :: :: :: (difficult as you should avoid using acetone or solvents
:: :: :: :: to clean the boat or windows), and then resealed. It may
:: :: :: :: be a good time to replace them--if you take the old
:: :: :: :: windows to Tap Plastics they will fabricate new windows
:: :: :: :: for a very reasonable price. Have them drill the screw
:: :: :: :: holes also (oversize to allow for expansion), as
:: :: :: :: drilling through lexan without a proper drill will cause
:: :: :: :: micro cracks that spread later. Note that Tap will bevel
:: :: :: :: and/or melt edges to your specifications for a very nice
:: :: :: :: look.
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: After breaking several windows during races, I switched
:: :: :: :: to polycarbonate windows, which scratch more easily but
:: :: :: :: are much much stronger.
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: When re-bedding windows, you want to have a good
:: :: :: :: thickness of silicone. One trick I learned for this is
:: :: :: :: to cut tiny squares of white electrical tape and placing
:: :: :: :: them near (1/4" away from) the screw holes, so when you
:: :: :: :: fasten the window in place there is still a thickness of
:: :: :: :: silicone to make the seal. Don't tighten the screws
:: :: :: :: until the silicone has set up somewhat, and then don't
:: :: :: :: tighten them very much. Remember, you want a thickness
:: :: :: :: of silicone to make the seal.
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: Masking over everywhere that silicone should not go
:: :: :: :: (window, cabin top) is a good idea, as silicone that
:: :: :: :: gets loose will both make a mess and make future
:: :: :: :: painting / repair jobs go poorly.
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: I have an Express 37 with the original windows (very
:: :: :: :: hazy but no leaks). They have very thick silicone layer
:: :: :: :: (perhaps 1/8" thick). I'm not sure what trick they used,
:: :: :: :: but it has been very effective over the years.
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: Where can I find how to repair Express Window water
:: :: :: :: :: leak?
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: I heard it is common for Express 27. Any article or
:: :: :: :: :: instruction for the repair?