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Author: Steve Katzman
Subject: brendanb@sfsail.com
Info: (46 views) Posted: Friday 6-8-18 11:35:48 AM
Tell us more about NOT using acetone or solvents. What should be used and why no acetone or solvents. SDK

:: No posted instructions that I know of, though you can
:: search the internet and find various approaches people
:: have taken.
::
:: Generally windows leak through the screw holes, though
:: if not well sealed originally they can leak anywhere.
:: The cabin top flexes a lot when walked on and will break
:: the seal for the windows. If the windows are in very
:: good shape and seem well sealed you can try removing
:: offending screws, sealing them with silicone, and
:: replacing them.
::
:: To re-bed the windows they must be removed, all old
:: sealant carefully cleaned from boat and windows
:: (difficult as you should avoid using acetone or solvents
:: to clean the boat or windows), and then resealed. It may
:: be a good time to replace them--if you take the old
:: windows to Tap Plastics they will fabricate new windows
:: for a very reasonable price. Have them drill the screw
:: holes also (oversize to allow for expansion), as
:: drilling through lexan without a proper drill will cause
:: micro cracks that spread later. Note that Tap will bevel
:: and/or melt edges to your specifications for a very nice
:: look.
::
:: After breaking several windows during races, I switched
:: to polycarbonate windows, which scratch more easily but
:: are much much stronger.
::
:: When re-bedding windows, you want to have a good
:: thickness of silicone. One trick I learned for this is
:: to cut tiny squares of white electrical tape and placing
:: them near (1/4" away from) the screw holes, so when you
:: fasten the window in place there is still a thickness of
:: silicone to make the seal. Don't tighten the screws
:: until the silicone has set up somewhat, and then don't
:: tighten them very much. Remember, you want a thickness
:: of silicone to make the seal.
::
:: Masking over everywhere that silicone should not go
:: (window, cabin top) is a good idea, as silicone that
:: gets loose will both make a mess and make future
:: painting / repair jobs go poorly.
::
:: I have an Express 37 with the original windows (very
:: hazy but no leaks). They have very thick silicone layer
:: (perhaps 1/8" thick). I'm not sure what trick they used,
:: but it has been very effective over the years.
::
::
::
::
::
:: :: Where can I find how to repair Express Window water
:: :: leak?
::
:: :: I heard it is common for Express 27. Any article or
:: :: instruction for the repair?

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