Hi Terry,

The Pacific Cup has a fairly stringent set of criteria that have to be met and boat inspections to ensure compliance. The requirements are on their web site - PacificCup.Org. The most major modifications are as follows:

1. Installation and testing of an emergency rudder - I use a Catalina 22 rudder hung from gudgeons on the transom. I use a tiller pointed aft controlled by lines from the end of the tiller to a block on each corner of the transom and steer with the lines. This works fairly well but is not a light as I would like. If I get time, I will try to construct a fabric rudder using the spinnaker pole and a whisker pole similar to the one Paul Kamen describes on the link from the Pacific Cup web site.

2. Adding an inside bilge pump and modifying the cockpit bilge pump -The outflow from the bilge pumps must not drain into the cockpit drains. I added two additional through hulls in the foot steps on the transom and route the bilge pump drains to these. The old side port on the starboard cockpit drain has to be covered.

3. Modifying the running lights - The running lights have to be either at the mast head (the preferred solution but too much weight aloft in my opinion) or at least at the level of the lifelines. I got new fixtures and made wood caps to fit over the old holes for the deck level light fixtures. I use the old wiring with an extension through the caps to reach the lifeline level lights.

4. Installing a mast head VHF antenna - There must be a permanently installed VHF and it must connect to a mast head antenna.

5. Installing a HF radio - I bought a SSB radio and put it on the boat for ocean races. It requires a 15 amp circuit and this means upgrading the fuse panel. I added a secondary panel just aft of the original paned with a 25 amp circuit breaker for the SSB and a 10 amp circuit breaker for my solar panels. I have used 2 antenna systems. Four years ago I made an extension for the top foot of my backstay with an insulator made of Delrin (from TAP plastics) to separate it from the rest of the backstay and used the lower segment for the antenna. Two years ago I attached the antenna to the entire rig with no insulator. Each of thes antennas has worked fairly well but this year I have made a Spectra backstay with a copper wire inside the backstay and will use this. Copper carries the signal much better than Stainless Steel. The FH ground is as important as the HF antenna. The first year I placed copper foil tying the ground connector of the antenna tuner to the lifelines and to a keel bolt. Two years ago I used a battery cable routed through a hole in the foot step and dragged it in the water when I wanted to use the SSB. I plan to use this second method this year.

6. Upgrading the battery system - The size of the battery system depends on how efficient your charging system will be and whether you will use an autopilot. The Pacific Cup requires at least 2 batteries. I used a 74 amp battery with a 5 amp 2nd battery 4 years ago and a 86 amp battery with a 25 amp 2nd battery 2 years ago. I plan to go with this second setup this year. Gel Cell (or AGM)batteries are the only sensible choiee.

7. Adding a charging system - I used a single 75 watt solar panel 4 years ago and 2 panels 2 years ago. Each time the panel was able to pivot to point toward the sun. I plan to use the 2 panel system again this year. This is probably not enough power for singlehanding but is fine if you plan to steer almost all of the time. The alternative is a portable charger (like a small Honda charger). I also installed a Link 10 battery monitor so I would know when to stop charging the batteries.

8. Installing taller stanchions - The class rules permit shorter stanchions than the Pacific Cup allows. Intermediate life lines are also required.

9. The hatchboards must be strengthened and devided so that the lower hatchboard reaches up to the deck height. A rope has to be installed to anchor the hatchboard(s) in place. A fastening device also has to be added to the hatch cover. Each of these has to be able to be fastened or released from both inside and outside the cabin.

10. Technically there must be a head in place. One year I was able to get by with a bucket but the second year I had to add a porta potty. Even though I carried a porta potty, I used a bucket since it is so much easier to empty and clean.

11. There is also a technical requirement for water tanks emptying to a faucet. This system is supposed to hold 20 of the 30 required gallons of water. My system doesn't quite hold this much. The tanks can be supplemented with bottled water and most small boats have gotten waivers for the tanks and carried only bottled water. I have tried putting the tank under the pipe berth but I think this puts too much weight aft and this year the tanks are behind the settees.

12. The race requires a storm jib, trysail and a heavy weather jib.

13. Everything below decks must be anchored to the boat so it won't shift if the boat rolls. This can be tricky with heavy items such as the battery. I mounted a battery box to a new floorboard which is mounted to the thwarts accross the bilge. My inside bilge pump is also mounted to this new floorboard.

14. Flares and a life raft have to be rented or bought. I have always rented a raft but purchased flares.

I have probably left out some of the things that need to be done but I think most are covered in this list. It takes several months to get all this done and it needs to be carefully thought out if you want the changes to be reversible so the boat remains competetive for buoy racing. Don't wait until April to begin or you won't be finished in time.

Good luck,

Terry Cobb Mirage

:: Mostly asking boats planning on the the pacific cup,
:: what are you doing to your boats for the trip to Hawaii?